Winterizing a pool correctly is the single most important step you will ever have as a pool owner. The most common mistake that pool owners and untrained pool companies make is draining the water below the pool returns. DO NOT DRAIN THE POOL! You may void your warranty if you do. A pool that is drained down will have a lot of undue stress on the sidewalls from ground pressure and frost. A pool that has been properly closed can remain full of water. We have been winterizing pools in Michigan for over 20 years without draining any water and have had great success. The next steps are a general guideline to correctly winterizing your pool.
STEP 1: Bring a water sample to our store for testing so we can properly balance the water before your pool is closed. Balance the water according to the water test results. Allow at least 3-4 days for water corrections. If the pool is not properly balanced before winterization, there may be staining and corrosion to the shell and plumbing as a result.
STEP 2: Locate all of your winterization supplies. This includes stand pipes, winter cover and water tubes, winterization chemicals, pool antifreeze and all necessary plugs. If this is your first season as a pool owner, you may have to purchase some of these items.
STEP 3: Remove handrails and ladders. This will help protect them from the harsh winter elements. Do not attempt to remove slides or diving boards. They are designed to remain outside year-round.
STEP 4: Brush down the floor and sidewalls of your pool. Wait for debris to settle onto floor before proceeding to step 5.
STEP 5: Vacuum any settled debris. This is VERY IMPORTANT! Any leaves, dirt or debris left on the bottom of the pool will cause staining during the off-season.
STEP 6: Thoroughly clean your filter. If you have a sand filter, backwash it. If you have a cartridge or D.E. filter, remove the element and hose it off using filter cleaner.
STEP 7: Remove and clean pump and skimmer baskets. Reinstall when clean.
STEP 8: Turn power off to all equipment, if you have an Intermatic Timer make sure you pull all the “on” pegs out of the timer. If you have a WPC-1 Timer place all switches to “off” position.
STEP 9: Remove all drain plugs from your pump, filter and heater. Once the water has drained, re-install the plugs.
STEP 10: Remove all return eyelets and massage jet inserts.
STEP 11: Connect Stand Pipe inside skimmer. Be sure that you do not cross thread it when installing.
STEP 12: Blow out all lines through the stand pipe using an air compressor or high powered shop vacuum. The return lines are simple to winterize if you are using a “Duck Plug”. If not, be sure you have a helper. All of the other lines below the water surface (massage jets, heat plus, main drains, etc.) will require a helper. Any lines above the surface (water slides, cascade, waterfalls, deck jets, etc.) can be blown out without a helper.
STEP 13: After all lines have been carefully blown out, add pool antifreeze to each line. NEVER use automobile antifreeze – IT IS TOXIC!!! Keep the empty bottles for the next step.
STEP 14: Remove the plugs from your water heater and add antifreeze. If your heater has a visible pressure switch, disconnect the copper lead line.
STEP 15: Put threaded plug in top of Stand Pipe. Put the caps on empty antifreeze bottles and place around the perimeter of Stand Pipe inside of the skimmer. This will give the freezing pool water inside of the skimmer room for expansion.
STEP 16: Install your cover. Be sure there are no tears or rips. If you are using a conventional winter cover with water tubes, be sure you do not overfill the water tubes. They are designed to be filled to 75-80% capacity to allow room for expansion when the water inside freezes. If you are using a mesh cover, be sure the straps have equal pressure. When using a solid vinyl automatic cover, be sure your pump is placed in the center of the cover and has power.
STEP 17: Last, remove plugs from the pump and filter. Store these inside your pump basket so they can be found easily in the Spring.
